The anchor of the Jim Beam small batch collection (the lowest price,
shortest bottle, longest posted age in the barrel and the biggest sales
of any small batch bourbon) Knob Creek is a big substantial bourbon that
oozes class and quality. It begs to be sipped neat and slow. It stands
up to the best bourbons without embarrassing itself.
In the glass
it's a rich spessarite garnet reddish orange with a tinge of henna. The
redness is coming from the #4 char oak barrels. That's the darkest
level of char. This char level shows up all over Knob creek - from the
color to the nose to the last notes of the finish. Knob Creek's
extensive time in the wood is a big part of its character and the fact
that the wood was darkly charred is a big part of the wood's character.
The
nose brings up toffee, leather, and bitter orange. Further nosing
brings out vanilla, cream, and some earth mustiness - like forest floor
leaves and loam. It's a complex, appetizing, and pretty sophisticated
nose for a bourbon that some folks don't respect enough, in my opinion,
because it's so universally available.
The initial taste on first
sip is sweet with brown sugar and moassess. That's followed up by a big
midpalate expansion spicy on the edges of the tongue with 100 proof and
full of a sophisticated sherry quality. The finish is redolent with oak
wood and a bitter orange note in the back of the tongue. There's char
in the finish, vanilla, sandalwood perfume and a distant and pervasive
backdrop of charcoal and creosote. You don't notice it at first but it
builds up as you devour your glass. There's also a sour tang that shows
up slowly over time that I have come to associate with Jim Beam. It's
very subtle but it's the thread that binds the disparate Jim Beam stable
together.
This is a big, rough, very masculine bourbon. It's a
frontier cabin with leather, musket, and wood fire raging. It's also
elegant and refined - to a point. I have no trouble recommending it -
but have to point out that Elija Craig 12 has a lot of the same flavor
profile (but more sweet and less char) for substantially less money. In
any case, you'll have no trouble finding Knob Creek and once you start
sipping I sincerely doubt anyone would regret any part of it even for a
minute.
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